Hot Turkey

August 1, 2009 at 10:36 AM

There's nothing like going cold turkey to break an addiction . . . Three weeks without the violin, three weeks without the internet--which is worse?

I have not processed or posted any photos, and am barely finished unpacking. And, I have been awake since about 4 am due to the 6-hour jetlag. I usually think it's easier coming west than east, but this has been a tough couple of days. My uncle Jim, who had been fighting glioblastoma since April, lost that battle Thursday night. When I was 12, our family went on a family reunion cruise to Alaska. Our grandmother invited her three sons, which included my father and his two younger brothers and their families. I only have scattered memories from that trip: the scavenger hunt on the ship, glacier bay, the almost constant rain, some tribal dancers, and lots of playing with our cousins, Jim's kids. I haven't been back to Alaska yet, either.

On this trip, we (just me, my husband, and our two kids) took another cruise, this time on the Mediterranean to Italy, Greece and Turkey: from Venice to Athens to Istanbul and back, with stops at Mykonos, Santorini, and Ephesus. In contrast to that Alaskan cruise, this one was hot and it didn't rain at all. Our ship, from the Holland America Line, was called the Oosterdam. Its sister ships have names like the Rotterdam. Some of the workers on board the Oosterdam wore T-shirts that said "dam ships." The article mentions Jim's sense of humor and fondness for practical jokes, but not how he also loved puns. Those T-shirts, and the "dam dollars" we collected for taking part in trivia quizzes on board (to exchange for a mug that said "O dam") would have made Jim's day. He once referred to his mother's childhood experiences with a father who was a public works engineer as "going from one dam project to another." So Jim, the punny title of this blog is for you.

Although the cold turkey experiences on this trip weren't so great, Istanbul--being both in Turkey and warm--was. I'd never really been near this part of the world before and it is beautiful, a bit like San Francisco, but with thousands of years of visible, vibrant history on top of it, underneath it, and all around it. During the day we took a short boat trip between Europe and Asia, went with a guide to the Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque and Tokapi Palace. I also came to appreciate Mustafa Kemal Ataturk as a real hero for our times. The last time I really thought about him at all was in 10th grade history class. But his vision for what Turkey could become--a modern secular state with the goals of religious freedom, pluralism, and tolerance--was prescient. It was interesting to hear the different tour guides' takes on the current political situation. One simply acted as if Ataturk's vision was unfolding as planned. Another expressed anger and some fear at the religious parties' political agenda.

Musically I had a rather confusing trip. For a couple of days I had a mental tape of' "Istanbul (Not Constantiople)" (TMBG version) continuously playing in my head. It has a (small) violin part. I also brought along my iPod and copies of the sheet music for Simchas Torah (Bloch) and Franck mvt. 4. I tried to listen to these faithfully every day and follow along the music at least once. I didn't make it every day, but I did manage to work out some bowings and fingerings for the Bloch. I think it will be interesting to see if that was useful at all when I get back to the instrument seriously. Will having the pitches in my ear help me put my fingers in the right place, even if they've never been there before? I admit I'm feeling a little anxious about both of these pieces. They are quite different from what I've played before--and so high. I feel my technique is sorely lacking. But the Franck in particular seemed just right for sailing away, rocking gently to sleep in the middle of the Aegean. I probably will not be able to hear it ever again without thinking of bright blue waters and sunlight.

Which is kind of what I need right now.

From Anne Horvath
Posted on August 1, 2009 at 3:24 PM

Sorry about your Uncle. He sounds like he was a really wonderful person to be around.

As for internet vs. practicing, practicing trumps all. Internet is something to do on practice breaks!

From Tom Holzman
Posted on August 2, 2009 at 1:17 AM

Karen - welcome back. I am so sorry to hear about your uncle. Your trip sounds fabulous. We did a similar one in the summer of 2001. I hope you got to view Istanbul from the Galotta Bridge at sunset. That is truly one of the ultimate experiences. Did you do a turkish bath? My wife and daughter thought that was one of the great things in Istanbul. Anyhow, it's good to have you back among us. I missed your blog.

From Karen Allendoerfer
Posted on August 2, 2009 at 1:37 AM

Anne, the thing is, I basically make my living on the internet. I use it every day at work. Whereas violin is really just a hobby. So unfortunately, practicing is something I do between work breaks. (This isn't work, though. Or practicing. Urg.)

Tom, I didn't get onto either bridge, I just took a boat underneath both of them. The tour guide made a reference to the Golden Gate bridge and the Bay Bridge and I could see a resemblance. But housing prices are just as bad there as in the SF Bay area, if not worse. Alas. We were only there two days so no time for a Turkish bath. But we actually did buy a carpet. We've needed something in the dining room ever since we moved into this house!

From Terez Mertes
Posted on August 2, 2009 at 3:50 PM

What a clever title to this blog. : )

Sounds like a wonderful, eventful trip - so sorry you had to receive the news about your uncle afterward.

From sharelle taylor
Posted on August 3, 2009 at 8:29 AM

Its nice to see you back Karen, and sad too to hear about your uncle.

I'm sure he would have appreciated the unintentional irony of the comment left on the HeraldNet site after the article: "he definitely has my respect as a very riotous person"

From Karen Allendoerfer
Posted on August 3, 2009 at 1:59 PM

"riotous" person, huh? Yes, he would have appreciated that. The decision he made on the Tlingit banishment case did cause a lot of controversy at the time. He was even on Nightline back then to discuss the case. (My brother taped it, he said he wanted a recording of Ted Koppel saying the word "Allendoerfer.")

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