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How To (and why?) Replace the Tailpiece of Your Violin or Viola
Written by Zlata Brouwer
Published: June 4, 2014 at 2:00 PM [UTC]
Why should you replace the tailpiece of your violin or viola?
- If your tailpiece is broken (duuuuh)
- If you want a tailpiece with four integrated finetuners.
Let’s go a little deeper into the second point. Why would you want a tailpiece with four integrated finetuners?
Perhaps your tailpiece is made of wood and you use loose fine tuners (not integrated). This means you can take the finetuners of the tailpiece and use none, one, two, three or four finetuners. Tuning is easier and faster when you have four finetuners.
If you put four loose metal finetuners on a wooden tailpiece, the tailpiece will become heavy. It’s not good for the tone of your violin to have an heavy tailpiece.
However... we want a good tone AND four finetuners. To achieve this you should consider a tailpiece made out of composite material with four integrated finetuners. I have bad experiences with Chinese made tailpieces (they break quickly and don’t tune easily), so get yourself some German quality (click here to buy what I recommend) by Wittner, a Deutsch Qualitätswerkzeug ;).
It’s not so difficult to replace the tailpiece yourself. Just follow these steps and watch the video before you start.
- Turn all the strings loose.
- Don’t remove the strings all the way.
- Remove the ball of the string from the finetuner.
- Remove the bridge.
- Wrap the strings around the neck of the violin.
- Remove the tailpiece.
- Clean your fiddle carefully (now you can reach all those places you normally can’t clean).
- Don’t shake your violin ;), so the soundpost doesn’t fall.
- Turn the finetuners of the new tailpiece all the way up.
- Place the loop on the new tailpiece.
- Measure how long the loop should be and adjust the length. Repeat this a couple of times if necessary.
- The tailpiece should never touch the soundboard.
- Put a cloth under the tailpiece, so it doesn’t damage the soundboard.
- Put one string on the tailpiece and tighten it a little.
- Make sure the winding of the string around the peg remains the same. The string shouldn’t cross itself and shouldn’t push the peg out of the peg box.
- Put the strings on the tailpiece one by one. Don’t mix ‘em up. Don’t tighten them too much in this stage.
- Put the bridge back on the violin under the strings. Make sure the position of the bridge is correct and that it stands up straight.
- Tune your violin carefully.
- The distance from the tailpiece to the bridge should be 1/6 of the vibrating string length. If it’s different, adjust the length of the loop.
- Play!
- Tune regularly.
Is this useful to you? Please let me know in the comments below!
Love,
Zlata
PS: Do you have questions or struggles on violin or viola playing? Post a comment below or send an e-mail to info@violinlounge.com and I might dedicate a Violin Lounge TV episode to answering your question!
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Posted on June 4, 2014 at 9:22 PM
While the built-in tuner tailpieces are a big improvement over hanging string adjusters all over your ebony, you are still quite limited in tonal adjustment whereas with a wood one you have infinite possibilities.
Posted on June 4, 2014 at 9:58 PM
tail piece bling? I use the Perfection Pegs
on all my violins. I have tried Wittner's version
and they always slip. If you play an intrument
that is named after a previous owner and is owned by
a corporate sponsor, just laugh at us and move along.
If you own your own violin and it will never be in a
museum, consider the geared Perfection Pegs. They
are now available with "actual wood" knobs.
Posted on June 5, 2014 at 12:46 AM
Posted on June 5, 2014 at 2:16 AM
GREAT IDEA!
Occam's Razor strikes again.
Posted on June 5, 2014 at 12:36 PM
Posted on June 5, 2014 at 12:49 PM
Posted on June 5, 2014 at 2:01 PM
Posted on June 6, 2014 at 6:19 AM
Posted on June 8, 2014 at 9:53 AM
A Wittner tailpiece is very light and resonates well... but...
I was struggling with my own violin, which has a very big sound and very sharp response. My luthier changed my wooden (ebony) tailpiece with integrated finetuners on the A and E string to a Wittner Ultra. He said it’s easier and wooden tailpieces with integrated finetuners get broken easily, so I accepted the Wittner.
Since a year I have struggling more with the clear sound of my violin... it’s a bit too sharp en and it’s difficult to dose it. It seems that it’s troubling me more than it did in the last fifteen years I own this instrument.
Let’s say it eats 2,7 meter Steinway’s for breakfast. Most pianists have to play a little soft when accompanying a violinist... my accompanists can hardly keep up with my little monster violin.
Last year I have been thinking about and searching maybe another violin...
After reading your comment I immediately (yes, with my first morning coffee) replaced my Wittner tailpiece with the ebony one with integrated finetuners... and Eureka! My violin is still a monster, but the sharp edges are a bit off.
The Wittner works perfect with most (especially student) violins, because it resonates very well and gives modest sounding instruments a clearer sound.
After this experience I wouldn’t recommend this tailpiece with rather clear and large sounding instruments.
Thanks for sharing this. I will post this comment on my website www.violinlounge.com and am planning to make a video about the different tailpieces available on the market.
Have a nice Sunday, violinist.com peeps!
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