Should I have my fingerboard polished?

April 20, 2015 at 08:29 PM · No, don't polish the fingerboard. I'm not a luthier, but my understanding is that it's not supposed to be polished; I'm surprised a violin shop would agree to do such a thing. It needs to be slippery under your fingers, so you would not want it polished.

April 20, 2015 at 08:55 PM · I don't recommend it either, partly because I don't do it. I don't think it would hurt because your fingers don't usually contact the fingerboard that much (although I sometimes see the results of obvious exceptions). If it is important to you, you can do it yourself with the strings off, using a buffing wheel and maybe a light coat of linseed oil well rubbed in. Others may disagree with me, so take this as only my suggestion.

April 20, 2015 at 09:31 PM · There are compounds one can use to dress a fingerboard. But if you have no experience in violin-making or repair, don't do it. Having said that, if you want to smooth things a tiny bit, sand with 1500 grit sandpaper. It won't look glassy but will certainly feel glassy.

April 20, 2015 at 10:47 PM · The fingerboard should be dressed when it develops "washboard" patterns from your fingers, which you can see by sighting down the end. It should also be appropriately curved in the middle. If it does not need these done, don't have it polished to have it polished. It's not a car.

April 20, 2015 at 11:30 PM · I would have thought...polished equals slippery...?

April 20, 2015 at 11:58 PM · Depends on whether if you've used a slippery compound. I could see where one would be going with the 'sticky' polished surface; think running your hand along clean glass. You fingers will stick more than, say, over (clean) 'frosted' glass. Principles of friction apply, where a microscopically uneven surface (i.e. the fingerboard) and your finger-print-ridged fingertips have less of their total surfaces touching than a flat, bump-less fingerboard and your skin. Therefore, a glass-like, polished fingerboard may cause more 'catching' (thru friction).

(In theory, anyway...)

Personally, I have never seen a glass-like sheen on any fingerboards, except perhaps cheap VSOs for gimmicks. It's simply not necessary. If you're having trouble shifting up and down I would think it is more of an issue with the neck than the fingerboard.

April 21, 2015 at 12:57 AM · If your fingerboard is worn and has bumps, you will need to have it replaned. If you are adventurous and the condition of the fingerboard is not too bad, you could try to smooth it yourself using a fine scraper and some sandpaper. But this is not a task that can be taken too lightly. When in doubt, consult with a luthier.

April 21, 2015 at 01:31 AM · "Polish" to make it shiny doesn't make sense, but, as Scott and Kevin point out, dressing/planing to get out any ridges and dents from playing is necessary.

April 21, 2015 at 03:11 AM · I want to thank everyone who replied.

I remember a long time ago reading about fingerboards being polished (buffed) to a high shine, but I cannot remember the context or the source. My teacher's violin is gorgeous, but it is more than just the fingerboard.

The process I talked to the shop owner with would consist of sandpaper and steel wool, no oil or other substances.

I have had my violin for two and a three quarter years and I am the original owner. So it is past due for its yearly cleaning, though it has been looked at a couple of times since I bought it.

As you can see it is starting to look a bit grimy.

April 21, 2015 at 03:48 AM · Given that your instrument is new, it's exceptionally unlikely that the fingerboard needs refinishing. If you're concerned about keeping it clean on a routine basis, run a clean microfiber cloth lightly beneath the strings each time you're done playing. Your hands should be clean before you touch the violin, so it shouldn't be getting grimy.

April 21, 2015 at 03:24 PM · Your violin looks fine. Preventive care goes a long way -- cleaning off the rosin dust faithfully every time you play and keeping your fingers .off. of the bouts. Even cleaned fingers rarely have any reason to be touching the bouts or other varnished surfaces of your instrument.

For a good (and well-known) example of a fingerboard that might be a candidate for replaning, watch this youtube of Leonid Kogan:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xsFJS4I_05E

It's easy to get lost in his gorgeous tone, so keep your eyes out at around 1:35 and again at 2:50 and you'll see that in the reflection of the bright lights his fingerboard has a washboard type surface. It seems unlikely to me that Kogan would not have been aware of it or that he couldn't afford the work. Maybe the small indentations help him lock his fingers into the right spots, sort of like tapes. :)

April 21, 2015 at 05:43 PM · Thank you, Paul, for the link. I watched the video with no other intention than to get lost in Leonid Kogan's gorgeous tone!

Edit: but I do see what you meant about the fingerboard.

April 22, 2015 at 03:46 PM · Here is a video that discusses the proper care of your fingerboard https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eQ68TIMBiUg

April 22, 2015 at 04:37 PM · Ha ha, too funny!

(The video shows someone installing an adhesive fretted overlay... I mean it has actual functioning frets!)

April 22, 2015 at 04:37 PM · I took my violin to the shop after my lesson today. I am glad I asked about the buffing of the fingerboard from a cost and process perspective, but the clerk and luthier both agree that buffing would be aesthetic only, not a functional difference.

Given the amount of rosin build up and overall condition I qualified for a half price cleaning. This even includes putting a drop of varnish on a couple of frog bites on the treble center bout.

The luthier did check my setup and found that my E and G are about a milometer too high. This is within “the ball park” so I was given the option to have him re-crown the bridge or not. Since its in the shop and both the luthier and I have a thing about bridges I'm going for it.

The rosin build up is mainly a dullness in front of the bridge. To say I'm meticulous is an understatement. When I was a choir director another guitar playing choir director told me I was the only person he had ever seen wipe down a guitar the way I do.

After the lesson I did a quick wipe, but I would normally do a better job at home. One of the clerks, who plays with the ASO, puts her violin away to beat traffic and cleans it at home. I use two microfiber cloths a small blue one (Shar) and a big one, black (Music Nomad) or grey (Shar?).

I begin by running the blue cloth between the hair and the stick of my bow then dust the stick. I loosen the hair and then wipe the area I touch and put the bow away.

Again with the blue cloth:

Wipe any sweat off the chinrest or body (if I forget my handkerchief)

Wipe the rosin off the strings between the bridge and the fingerboard.

Wipe the strings between the bridge and the nut.

Wipe the fingerboard under the strings.

Dust under the fingerboard.

Dust the top on both sides of the bridge.

Dust under the tailpiece and chin rest

Slip a corner of the cloth between the feet of the bridge.

Then with the black/grey cloth I wipe/buff the top, the sides, the back, the neck and finally the scroll and pegs.

I then use the cloth to hold the violin while I put it in its case.

I think it was two rosin stains near the end of the fingerboard that have been driving me crazy almost since I bought the violin two and three quarter years ago.

Thank you to everyone who replied. I'll be playing Lucy (Lui Xi), my fiddle, until I get my UCWV (Unlabeled Chinese Workshop Violin) back.

April 22, 2015 at 07:16 PM · Don't laugh, David. Just your luck someone will commission one of your violins with frets. Karma!

And Patrick looks like you're forgetting the inside edges of your f-holes. Get some Q-tips.

Maybe on a more serious note, when you give your violin to a luthier for a "professional cleaning," what do they use, and what do they do? Do I really need a professional luthier to put a drop of Hill polish on a soft cloth and rub it around? Surely they would not do a "French polish" without me having specifically requested that, would they?

April 24, 2015 at 03:17 AM · Sticky saw blade, sand blaster with pecan shell.

April 24, 2015 at 03:06 PM · John wrote: "Just damp and only on the fingeboard .Then dispose of the stick and cloth in a safe place. Do not eat it or stick it in your ear ."

Reminds me of the painter who accidentally drank his varnish. He had a horrible end, but a great finish.

April 30, 2015 at 02:51 AM · I picked up my UCWV (Unlabled Chinese Workshop Violin) today. The rosin spots that formed before my cleaning methods were fully developed are gone, the frog bites on the treble c-bout were nicely touched up, and the bridge was re-crowned.

You can especially feel a difference up the neck as you would expect with a slight lowering of the top of the bridge (1mm). It is interesting to see where the luthier thinned the top of the bridge. I knew that wood darkens with oxidation, but I had not thought about the bridge getting darker with age.

Well, I didn't get the fingerboard polished. It was not needed. Thanks to everyone who advised me on violin maintenance.