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How to negotiate?
I'm looking to buy a Charles Alfred Bazin viola bow from a shop which is selling on commission with a sticker price of €5k. From what I see the average latest sales range from €3-€3.5k.There are no major structural damages, but some small chips on the frog near the underslide, tangible marks on the stick, dent in the frog heelplate as well as cracks in the ebony of the screw - all in all several little imperfections aesthetically. It does however play very well and I need this bow solely for upcoming auditions, it is not an investment piece.
Does anyone have any experience or advice in negotiating price? What would be a reasonable offer? I would not like to pay the full asking price based on last sold prices and the minor damages that come with the bow. Thanks!
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Replies (5)
There are just too many variables to answer this. In the US, it depends on the individual shop (some will bargain more than others), what that shop has invested in the bow (I.e., did the shop buy it at auction? Get it in trade? Is it on consignment? If on consignment, how flexible is the owner?)
Also, what’s the current market for this maker? What’s his reputation for viola bows? Are they common.. rare? Who else is advertising a similar bow in similar condition? How long has this bow been for sale? 5 years? One week?
Here’s the bottom line: Pick a number you won’t go past. If you must have THIS bow, be prepared to pay their price, OR be prepared to walk. No different than negotiating for a car or house.
Here’s another view, though: In the big picture, €5K seems pretty low for a vintage French bow, at least in the US. If you really like it, don’t worry about trying to save a little. €1500, when you’re talking fine French bows, is a rounding error.
You may have it for a lifetime, and in a few years you won’t care what you paid for it.
But it’s not as simple as just looking at average prices and coming to a magic number as an ideal retail price. You have to consider condition, the weight of the certificate (if one comes with it), and possibly provenance. When looking at your auction numbers, it’s also important to see how long ago those sales occurred. An auction from 20 years ago will not be up to date.
If you’re using retail prices posted online from other shops as reference or you’re looking at examples marked as sold, there’s a lot of data you’re not seeing there. An advertised price is not necessarily the final price. In that case, a violin or bow might end up selling for a price after some negotiation, but the online listing only shows that a violin offered for a certain price has sold. Unless you’ve seen receipts, you can’t be certain.
How you approach the shop will make a big difference in the way they respond. If you come across as though you’re accusing them of overcharging, it won’t make them want to negotiate. If you ask in a way that’s not confrontational, you’ll likely get a clear answer about whether there’s room to budge in price. Consignments pay the shop less than items they own, so keep in mind that they may not have much wiggle room for discounting.
If you’re polite with the shop, that might benefit you in the long run. If they know you like a bow, they might let you know later on if the pride is reduced, or they might find you a good alternative that will cost you less.
Obviously, there are things that can change this up or down, like condition, originality of parts, quality of materials, repairs, certification. Major wear due to extended playing but no huge restoration might knock 25% off, for example.













