Is there any advantage to getting rid of it for string length consistency, or tailpiece weight?
I know one poster (I'll not mention name) that will be aghast that I am converting to these pegs. However, my hand joints have said 'enough is enough'....
Appreciate any advice!
Cheers!!
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On my viola I have Wittner pegs and no fine tuners at all.
As I have mentioned before my experience is that Wittner FineTune Pegs work the best. They are functionally magical. But they are not quite as aesthetically attractive as PegHeds or Knillings.
Ir was only after that, approaching my 80s, that I discovered geared pegs and installed them on the same instruments. I kept the fine tuners in the tailpieces even though they could be removed. I saw no reason to remove them and they can be helpful, although sufficiently fine tuning can be done with the geared pegs. (Among the 9 instruments I have 8 Peghed and Knilling peg sets and one Wittner set.)
Aesthetically speaking, a fine tuner for the E is so commonplace that its absence is conspicuous. Functionally, the gear ratio on the pegs is fine enough that a fine tuner at the tailpiece is not necessary. Removing the tuner does lower weight, but if you’re using a loop-end tuner like a Hill style, the weight isn’t that significant anyway, and reducing weight is not always better for sound.
Much of it just comes down to habit and personal preference.
Those Wittners ae fantastic no?
For we players with arthritic hands, they're a marvel.
I know if I ever got them, I would leave the e tuner on , no real point taking it off as far as I can see.
They have too much mechanical slop and have a tendency to slip too sharp, too flat like out of round friction pegs.
I have never had a problem with Wittner pegs slipping, not even the slightest amount. PegHeds and Knilling Perfection pegs work a little differently and there is a little bit of a learning curve for those.
When you learned to tune with friction pegs, you were often taught to loosen the peg (tune down) and then approach the correct pitch from the bottom. This is the correct way with gear pegs too. The static friction that you're releasing is at the nut. This is why if you make a tiny adjustment with a gear peg, sometimes nothing happens to the pitch, because the nut is still holding the string at the same tension and you've only changed the tension of the string inside the peg box. Lubricating the nut grooves with graphite can help but may not eliminate this effect entirely. Tuning down first to release that differential tension across the nut will ensure accurate and stable tuning. With Knillings and PegHeds, as you tune up in pitch, you're supposed to press in slightly -- the same motion as friction pegs but with much less applied pressure and, obviously, better pitch control. That is something that you have to get used to also. Wittner pegs do not require any pushing in, you just turn them. Wittner's design is functionally superior. If you follow the manufacturers instructions you'll master all of the small idiosyncrasies of your gear pegs within a few days. And you will enjoy immediate benefit.
Thanks again everyone.
Cheers.
But, I confess, another big reason for putting it back on was people noticing its absence and asking how I deal without it.
A D'Addario tuner stays resident on my violin at all times. In fact, it's a needed accessory for my aging hearing.
https://fiddlershop.com/products/d-addario-ns-micro-violin-and-viola-tuner
So, even if the "A" is a bit off, it's easy to bring it quietly into line. I tune the "D" and "G" to the "A", and at one point, my "D" peg was a bit sticky. I dropped my violin off with my luthier for a couple of days, and he easily corrected this problem. I use a Hill style "E" string tuner to tune that string.
Note that, when I install a new string, I'm careful to make sure that the peg is angled for its maximum leverage.
I can understand their convenience. But for me, geared pegs are an unneeded alteration to my venerable violin.
Changing strings is a bit of a pain but I have the Wittner peg winder. One thing that does give me trouble is changing the G and E strings since they are under the D and A strings. Does anyone have a trick for this? Right now I’m just loosening the D/A string pegs just enough so I can move it out of the way a bit so I can string the G/E strings neatly and then I put them back. I do it one side at a time though and so far I haven’t had a mishap with the sound post, but if there’s a better way I will happily change my tactics.
I might do the same thing for G insertion (blocked by the D) but the lower strings are somewhat too thick and stiff to do that comfortably so I have been doing just what you do.
Since the first time I "dropped" a soundpost loosening all the strings at the same time, about 60 years ago, I have experimented and found it reasonably safe to loosen 2 strings at the same time (i.e., A & E and later D & G). But when I had a fairly loose soundpost I would move it to a tighter spot when doing that and then replace it to its original position after all string changing was finished.
I'm waiting for Wittner to design a "two-speed" peg. I wouldn't be surprised if someone already holds a patent on it. The world is full of clever people.
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