Looking at some articles and its drawings - I think the back violin measurements are measured with a straight rule. However, this video I came by show that one measures with "fabric" measuring tape and includes the curvature/arch at the back. She specifically states "not a straight rule." This caused me some pause. https://youtu.be/S0xMzLZguks
If that is so, then my violin is 36cm [!] and conventional wisdom is that it would be "big" for my petite frame.
When measuring with a straight rule, the back of my violin is 35.4cm to 35.7cm depending on the time of day when I measure. Its difficult to measure for a consistent number.
Please - could someone advise what is the best way for getting accurate measurement? [for a non-luthier]
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If one includes the arch/curvature, the measurements would be longer length, no?
Guarneri models are known for the higher arching, but are typically measured as smaller than Stradivari models.
I guess I am confused. Or maybe my question is not understood.
Bottom line — is the violin length a straight line from point A to point B, excluding the arching?
Measurements made with measuring tape include the arching. Measurements made with calipers do not include the arching.
Most reported measurements were made with measuring tape unless otherwise specified that they were made with calipers.
@David Burgess - my brain "doubly melted" when you confirmed George's statement.
Violin-making is exacting and precise. The standard definition is not clear to lay person.
@Steve Jones - thank you for your math skills in calculations. I can neither confirm nor refute your numbers. My real numbers this morning is that the length of my violin is 36cm with flexible sewing measuring tape, and 35.6cm with a long straight sewing rule. Measuring with straight rule is hardest with hand, eye coordination, and the violin hanging straight down. IMHO- I believe its more than 0.5-1mm difference that you have kindly calculated.
This brings up other questions:
How to interpret numbers listed online from a reputable violin store?
How to interpret numbers from Tarisio auctions?
How to interpret numbers from a violin maker? For example, I am looking at a booklet of a specific violin, front length is 356mm, and back length 357mm, and it has separate measurements for lower bout, upper bout etc. Would it be a good assumption that if it is from a violin maker, measurements would be from calipers?
Thank you in advance to all for answering. I have a curious mind. Sorry for any stoopid questions:(
P.S. This would also apply to the problems of wood dimensions for makers and and viola case dimensions selection for buyers.
Similarly, widths of the bouts are also usually measured with tape measures over the arching.
In most cases, caliper measurements are not used because most people don't have large calipers. Furthermore, because caliper measurements are shorter than tape measurements, the caliper measurements should be reported "by caliper."
Here's how the math works. Let's say you have a 16-inch viola and the height of the arch is 0.5 inch. Then the arch rises by half an inch over nine inches from top to middle, and back again from middle to bottom. So, to a first approximation the distance from the edge to the middle is the hypotenuse of a right triangle having edges 9 inches and 0.5 inches. The Pythagorean theorem gives this length as 9.014 inches. The additional 0.014 inches corresponds to 0.35 mm. Doubling this gives 0.7 mm. The curvature of the back is not linear, of course. It's more sigmoidal, which will give a somewhat higher error. If my approach is correct, then the maximum error is one inch, if the curvature of the back was a step function (i.e., not gradual at all).
I gather there is indeed some prejudice in the violin world against instruments exceeding 360 mm but why this should be so is unclear. From the point of view of fingering surely it's the vibrating string length that's critical? And viola players don't seem to have many problems adapting to (much) larger or smaller instruments. That said, I have difficulty adapting to a 362mm violin with an unusually low ratio between the neck stop and the body stop; this means that with my thumb on the crook of the neck I have to stretch the hand more to reach the higher positions.
This way of measuring must be obvious to those in the violin world. I only get to "read" about it, and look at pictures. Most drawings for length is a straight line from point A to point B. If the drawing was a curved line between point A to point B hugging the arch, it would have made more sense to lay person like me.
@Luis Claudio Manfio - Thank you for input. I looked at the booklet of the violin measurements from violin maker. There is no mention of "caliper." There is a straight line from point A to point B, BUT the line is broken like this ——- - - 356 - - - ——. I gather this means measured with flexible tape?
@Lyndon Taylor - I did double check sewing rule, fabric measuring tape with other "yardsticks" and they are good. You are right that measuring tapes can be inaccurate.
Ok- this has been educational. I find out that I am playing a violin that is larger than I thought I could handle [being petite etc.] Also this violin is supercomfortable for me, probably because of luthier set-up, maybe?
I also now wonder how one could transition from 360mm to say ?355mm and not lose muscle memory of left hand. Spacing would be different. Or can a quick adjustment be made. I believe I read somewhere on this site, that recommendation is to stick to one and not play both.
UPDATE: I made a mistake in measuring. My violin is ~355mm. So please DO NOT assume 360mm is OK for petite frame.
Not necessarily. If the string length (distance between the bridge and nut) and the action are the same, the fingering will remain the same.
Note that string length often varies a few mm between violins with the same LOBs. It depends on the individual violin and the set-up.
Violin shops tend to eschew violins over 360 mm, not because of vibrating string length, which can be adjusted, but because of the additional volume of the body, which tends to make a violin more viola-like. This is actually a thing that fiddlers like, so the longer instruments tend to either be rejected altogether by shops or set aside in case a fiddler comes in.
Cloth measuring tapes are not generally the type used for measuring instruments, so their inaccuracies are not relevant. Good quality metal tapes are consistent enough that back measurements are fairly easy to take. Problems arise when people don’t know where to place the tape or when they’re measuring things like bout widths, which are a little trickier to measure.
Mea culpa. I feel stoopid. If I made any clothes, it would be lop-sided.
@George Huhn – thank you. The violin is complex. I learnt something new from your comments.
Steve, about the calculation, imagine the curvature of a 16-inch viola back being as follows. Perfectly flat for 7 inches, then perpendicular to that for 0.5 inch, then flat for another inch. Mirror that on the other side. Ignoring the "curvature" you'll measure 16. If you follow the "curvature" closely using an infinitely flexible tape, you'll measure 17 (7 + 0.5 + 1)x2. The linear shape that we used for our calculations is the most gradual possible curvature, giving an error of less than a millimeter overall. The "perpendicular step up and step down" is the most extreme possible monotonic contour, giving an error of an entire inch!! The true curvature is (obviously) between these two extremes and seems likely to be much closer to the linear model, but what these calculations show is that the exact curvature does influence the amount of error.
Thinking about the caliper reminds of the old days when you would go to a shoe store and have your foot measured using this particular device that only existed in shoe stores. Maybe the luthier trade needs some equally bespoke (but otherwise entirely useless) tool for measuring violin backs. The problem with the caliper is that is might actually be good for something else.
Caliper measurements are certainly useful, but the reality is that measuring tapes are much more practical. No one who sells violins is going to want to carry a giant caliper around when a small tape fits in a pocket and gives a number that you can actually take to the bank. Many buyers of violins often carry a tape along with them on trips to shops, and checking the back length is a part of deciding whether to make a purchase on the spot. When you’re dealing in violins, you often have to make decisions in moments, so what may seem like a small detail to some is one that makes or breaks a sale.
If you’re using a measurement system that doesn’t line up with what the majority of the violin world uses, it means you have to accept the risk that you may end up with some instruments that are rejected right off the bat because they’re long and some that are labeled as 7/8 because they run small. There is a market for 7/8 violins, but it’s not nearly as wide as that for “full-size” violins.
I do disagree with Rich regarding instruments with longer backs inherently having darker tones than smaller fiddles because there are plenty of violins with LOBs under 360mm with dark tones. Arching and rib height also contribute to body volume. I think that violins over 360mm (in general) are harder to play for people with smaller hands without any inherent advantages over violins under 360mm, and therefore the market size for violins around 356+/-4mm is naturally larger.
There are no inherent advantages to larger violins over normal size violins. If there were, more people would make them and more people would would play them, but they don't because 356+/-4mm fiddles work very well for most players.
I didn’t say longer instruments are inherently darker. I said they’re often more viola-like, and not all violas are so dark. It’s more about the voicing. A bright viola doesn’t necessarily sound like a violin. Arching and rib height are important factors in volume, which is why some people will adjust those things to counteract a longer back. But under normal circumstances, a longer body with average rib heights and moderate arching is likely to sound tubby.
Darkness is a different characteristic, and there are dark violins that aren’t large. I have violins from a family of makers that are darker than just about anything, and their back lengths are always under 360.
As to the feel in the hands, the back length can be compensated for by shortening the neck. Some viola makers do this so that players can use a larger, more voluminous body without having to deal with increased interval spacing.
What you describe is a problem that can arise from using a shorter neck. There are workarounds for this, such as changing the position of the fingerboard or carving more out of the neck heel to give more room for the thumb. None of these are ideal solutions, but that’s the point I was trying to make in the first place—a body that’s too long can cause problems that aren’t easy to solve and are often just not worth the attempt. This is precisely the reason why so many shops don’t want the headache.
Violas generally do have a darker tone quality than violins on the strings that they have in common. Small violas usually have taller ribs than violins to help achieve this.
I don't know about using non-standard neck lengths for violas, but a non-standard neck length on a violin is a much greater problem than a longer LOB for virtually any player. IMHO, a non-standard neck length is a defect that should be fixed, reset, or replaced to the standard length regardless of the LOB.
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You can't use a straight ruler. An alternative is to use a large caliper, but this gives a different measurement value than the more widely used tape measure.