Bottom / End pin block gap between bottom plate

September 13, 2020, 3:24 AM · there is a small gap between the bottom plate and the bottom block on my violin. The gap is at most 1 or 2 mm and is only in the middle not on the ends ( where the bottom plate bends ) Someone pointed this out on a possible mold in violin discussion if you want to see a photo. Sorry for posting another question about my instrument on here lol.

Replies (9)

September 13, 2020, 3:28 AM · how much did you pay for this violin?? and can you ask for your money back??
September 13, 2020, 3:56 AM · I have two, this one is pretty old and i'm pretty sure I got it for under 3000. I mean isn't the bottom block made with the ribs in a flat mold while all back plates are arched. Are they suppose to curve the bottom block ??
September 13, 2020, 4:22 AM · No the back and the block are flat there, your glue join is failed and your whole bottom block is in danger of failing if its not fixed.
Edited: September 13, 2020, 9:36 AM · It looks to me like the fit between the block and the back plate was bad from when the violin was assembled, or perhaps extreme warping of the back plate. String tension would tend to close that area, not open it. (https://imageshack.com/i/pmGVFfy2j)

Is the glue joint good from the outside? Do you use an over-the-saddle chinrest? If those two things are true, and things have not changed recently, I don't think the danger level is high. Fixing it would be a bit of a chore.

I would be infinitely more concerned about the state of the glue joint between the top plate and the neck block, given the apparent poor workmanship at the lower block. That is far a far more critical joint.

September 13, 2020, 6:56 PM · There does not seem to be any gap by the upper block. Is this something that could affect the sound ? How would this be fixed ?
September 13, 2020, 7:14 PM · My guess is that when the violin was originally made, the flat platform to which the block is normally glued was made a little shorter than the depth of the block, so the block overhangs into the carved-away portion.
September 14, 2020, 5:01 PM · The fix would be to remove the top, glue a thick shim on the bottom block (or make an entirely new block, which is a lot more work), flatten the shim so it's level with the ribs, and glue the top back on. And/or if the top is badly warped, glue is shim on there and flatten it.

There would be some effect on sound, as the vibrating area would be constrained differently. Whether it is a good or bad change, who knows. In general, I think you'd say it's a bit stiffer, which might be good if it's too thin or bad if it's too thick. But I wouldn't expect every aspect of the sound to change... it will be mostly the same.

September 14, 2020, 7:31 PM · Don, the problem with your prescription is that the gap lays between the block and the back, so removing the top doesn’t get you there. But you would be able to get that green stuff out. ;)
September 15, 2020, 9:36 AM · Oops... right, it's the back... a more difficult repair since removing the back is not as easy. Same idea, just different plate (I've been working on a top plate in the shop, so that was on my mind, I think).


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