https://www.thestrad.com/playing/do-different-rosin-brands-actually-perform-differently-we-put-7-to-the-test/8119.article
I think it is worthwhile to read how a pro evaluates rosins.
I have used 6 of the 7 rosins tested (although since it has been over 60 years since I bought a cake of Hidersine I probably should not count that one).
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I do wonder about the prices of some, though there are good, pricier options.
As for the article-which I am not complaining about-it was full of players' preference bias, which is normal for such a subject. It kind of read as a mini advertisement for all the rosins involved, a few of which are not overly used and needed the exposure, for better or worse.
Thanks for the article, Mr. Victor.
I've occasionally thought about ordering a bespoken blend, but I'm pretty happy with switching between the rosins depending on how badly I need a rehair.
I have a big bag of rosins accumulated over the years and they are definitely different from one another.
A rosin that is described as supporting a “brilliant, soloistic” sound, tends to make it more scratchy. If you go for one for a “warm” sound, the sound might get dull. After all, it is an affordable accessory and can be fun (or frustrating) to play around with.
The rosin is mainly responsible for the contact between string and bow, so I am not surprised, at all, that it makes a difference. Try to play a note without rosin, then you have an impression of the rosin’s influence.
May that comparison you cited not have been scientifically well set up, that doesn’t weaken the fact that there are differences.
And, as with everything about the instrument, there is no one best choice for everybody.
"Study" would be a generous term for the process described in the article - almost as generous as applying the term to what I might have done in high school at the time.
The article is of course a consumer choice piece with a title that attracts attention but doesn't have any substance as it seems to raise a question that has some meaning or value but doesn't, because in the wide range of rosin it's 100% certain that they produce different results, which is intended to impress the reader and lend credence or value to the purchase price of the magazine.
To even think that the authors are interested or capable of taking an actual scientific approach to the domain is, I think, in error - to imagine that with a few changes in methodology it could become substantial.
They seem to be attempting to qualify different physical substances through the ears and hands of a single person. Who does that in science?
Which is not to say that the objections aren't valid - they certainly are; just that they aren't even close to being close, or interested - in the right domain or medium for that, and so I raise objections for a greater level of awareness of that.
And of course, though this theory may have nothing in it, if I feel better about my playing, I will probably play better.
I also was amused by the one that claims to have a rosin infused with meteoric iron.
No one else can hear a meaningful difference in your rosin, even if under the ear there may be significant difference. Ten feet away someone keen-ear can hear a difference but it's a tiny factor in your tone.
I do like my original-recipe Baker's, although I think much of my fondness for it was based on when the tin was completely fresh. (I strongly disliked its 'Vuillaume'-style formulation, though.)
And I continue to keep a cake of Vienna's Best in my case, as well.
Personally, I find that Baker's makes me play like the dancing of elves in the twilight, the mystery of the deep-forest trolls at night and the passion of Greek gods in their Mount Olympus sylvan hideaway.
On the other hand, Pinefresh rosin is more like a Cyclops with a bad case of morning-mouth.
Thank you, Elise - this thread is a pleasure to read.
Standard choices at the moment are Baker's original and Guillaume, although Andrea Solo/A Piacere have their place as well. A good, if somewhat brighter, alternative to Baker's is the Deja rosin, available for very little on Etsy.
I do like leatherwood, but I can't stand the leather wrapping and suspect that it, too, tends to deteriorate over time.
Lydia - you got me curious about Leatherwood, and I've read other posts on that rosin over the last 2 years. Not curious enough about it to invest in it at my level (Suz 4), but curious.
Thankfully I like Melos just fine - and have Melos Dark coming so I can compare with Melos Light. I found the price range interesting on this - Shar has almost the highest prices for it out there, but found it at Concord Music for significantly less.
In other words, there could be no such thing as too much or too little.
Of course, you could ask the same question about bows in general, and the tension of hair. Leaving aside the handling and balance, does hair tension make any difference to tone? On the same stick?
On the other hand, cellist David Finckel seems to believe in rosining a lot and often. (Maybe he just didn't use the right rosin? I don't know!)
I always want to start with enough rosin on my bow so it shows white on a dark cloth (my trousers).
Now I'm going to go check out what's happening in the tattoo thread.
"The rosin on the bow hair grips the string while pulling (or pushing) it from its equilibrium position until the restoring force of the string exceeds the gripping force of the rosin ("static friction"). The magnitude of that force is due to the static friction of the rosin on the bow and the rosin on the string.
When the restoring force of the string exceeds the gripping force of the rosin the string returns toward its equilibrium position and then beyond, slipping along the rosined bow hair until the bow hair grabs it again. This slipping is slowed in proportion to the "sliding friction" coefficient of the particular rosin used. The higher the static friction (within limits) and the lower the sliding friction of a rosin the more range of sound and response are available to the player. This grab-slip-grab-slip process occurs very fast, at the frequency of the string vibration rate (i.e., 440 times per second for "concert A" pitch)."
Based on these physics, the best rosin is one that has high static friction and low sliding friction. This allows for the maximum amplitude of vibration for the string being played. As Andrew points out, this gives the best range of sound and response for the player. In my many years of playing, I have used an abundance of rosins. They are not all the same. You do not apply them all the same. To achieve the best sound different rosins need to be experimented with by applying differing amounts in order to maximize these two frictional force components.
For me the rosin that works best is Larica Gold II. This rosin's performance is optimized when a minimum amount is applied. For 2 hours of continuous play time, 2 swipes are all that are necessary. My definition of a swipe is 1 down bow and 1 up bow. The rosin only coats the string with no white residue deposited on the top plate. After playing, the rosin can easily be removed from the string with a microfiber cloth. It is remarkable rosin. I play my violin consistently for about 90 minutes every day. One cake of rosin lasts many years.
The grip that feels the best to you will be personal. Rosin is relatively cheap.
I used Liebezeller rosins pretty exclusively during the first decade of this century. I bought my first cake of Liebenzeller I Gold at a violin shop in Bethesda, MD around 1965 (during a work trip to DC). I never could get enough rosin on my bow. So 35 years later when I rediscovered the brand (on the internet) I ended up obtaining mostly L-II for violin and L-III for cello. In addition, due to one thing or another I ended up trying all 5 of the "metals" - even copper, which a sample of which was sent to me free (and unsolicited) by Ellen G. at cellos2go.com. The copper is clearly for beginners because it lets you mess around indiscriminately with the bow and not get a bad sound.
My preferred Liebenzeller blends were Gold and "Meteoric Iron". I played cello in a weekly piano trip for almost 20 years and used the Liebenzeller rosins for at least 10 of those years. I found that the rosins started to fail me about 90 minutes into a session and I had to add rosin to the hair. I never figured out what accounted for the failure - perhaps the rosined hair had "glassed over." But I don't really know. From that I switched to Tartini/Andrea rosins, from that to Magic (which eventually came in 3 grades). I finally ended up with Leatherwood, bought directly from the maker in Australia when he had a half-price sale - so I bought 6 cakes, 2-each for violin, viola and cello - Supple and Crisp. I think it's the best.
Collecting rosins I always thing of Frank, whom I worked with many years ago, he collected vintage Porsches. So the cost of my collection did not faze me.
That was before Leatherwood was ever advertised in the USA.
It seems that Seitz is very careful in their manufacture of this rosin. I am old enough to have used the lady in the Black Forest version of Liebenzeller rosin. Larica is absolutely as good as the original. Sietz Rosin Manufacturing does use the original recipes. What I do not know and am suspicious of is the authenticity of the rosin that currently appears in Liebenzeller boxes. For me I am sticking with the known good Larica Gold II.
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"I think it is worthwhile to read how a pro evaluates rosins." Maybe they're pro violinists, but they should have consulted with a pro in basic experimental design, as it would have added considerable value to their study.
Likewise kudos to the folks at Leatherwood, who send you an optimized ("bespoke") rosin formulation based on a questionnaire. All they're doing is planting positive bias in the customer's mind.