Strings on pegs - anything you'd change?

September 2, 2020, 11:04 PM · A pic of how I have my strings on my pegs - anything you'd change?

Thanks!

Replies (7)

September 2, 2020, 11:26 PM · The strings. Or at least the E string it’s so rusted I’m surprised it hasn’t snapped yet.

On another note, it looks fine I’ve seen people put strings on like that before. If anything, I’d say put 1-2 winds on the other side of the hole the string goes through. By this I mean take the D peg for example: You’d thread the string through the hole, do 1-2 winds on the right side and then cross over to the left. This locks the string into place and prevents the string from slipping. It’s the same for the G strings and then the A and E string are the opposite. Do 1-2 winds on the left and then cross over to the right. The E string might not be necessary since it’s a single metal wire and it holds its tune fairly quickly once strung up and usually doesn’t have a risk of slipping, but I do it out of habit/uniformity.

Seriously though, at least change the E string, but might as well change the whole set.

September 3, 2020, 12:05 AM · Per Christian Harvey:

The strings. Or at least the E string it’s so rusted I’m surprised it hasn’t snapped yet.

Thanks for the tips.

The strings are actually pretty fresh - the brown you're seeing is caused by the flash bouncing off the mottled coloration of the fingerboard and I suppose reflecting off the string - it doesn't look like that in person. It's at least supposed to be ebony per the manufacturer but I guess not a uniform color ebony.

Edited: September 3, 2020, 5:25 AM · What Christian said. I was taught one turn on the inside, the rest on the outside, but 2 turns on the inside might be better (but don't cross over more than once), as sometimes there can be too many windings on the outside, and it's bad if they are tight against the wood - your D string might be a case in point.
September 17, 2020, 7:22 PM · A and D string looks tight to me. Sometimes, it causes difficulties to tune up, if the strings touch to the very end.
Edited: September 17, 2020, 8:32 PM · I'm not a paragon of neatness, but I usually try to do a couple of wraps on the far side of the hole in the peg. That allows the string to cross over itself and make a firmer connection. One luthier told me that if you play FF and the pitch drops a bit, either the peg is badly made or you have something wrong with how you are wrapping the string.

The other thing to do when you are tired of making oboe reeds is to align the pegs so that they can be tuned equally easily. Looks like you are most of the way there. But a pair of tweezers can allow you to adjust how far you pull the string through the hole, and that allows different positions for the business end of the peg.

Edited: September 17, 2020, 10:06 PM · If your strings aren't slipping or breaking and if your violin stays in tune and your pegs don't slip while you're sleeping, then you can ignore all these other knuckleheads. The proof of the pudding is in the eating.
September 18, 2020, 6:05 AM · To add a little more information to Stephen's post...

Hold the violin like you normally do when you tune it and see how easily you can grip and turn each peg.

I put the violin in playing position.

For the G and D pegs, I grip the peg heads between thumb and index finger and use my little finger on the opposite side of the scroll to adjust the peg force in the hole.

For the A and E strings, I grip the peg heads with thumb and middle finger and use my index finger to adjust the peg force in the hole.

I then use tweezers to adjust how much of the string comes through the peg hole and retune a string to see if the peg head is in a comfortable position when the string is in tune.

You only need to adjust the string by a couple of mm (maybe 1/8 inch) at a time. A tiny bit of string will make a big difference in how much the peg position is changed when brought back up to tune. A little mark on the string with pencil or ink as it comes out of the whole will help you with the adjustment.


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