shoulder rests and rubber compounds and friction
I've got a Hidersine Maesbury ($20) and a Chinese copy of it ($10) and a Bon Musica. I hate the Bon Musica, but its rubber has a much higher coefficient of friction than the other two, which is good, so I've been experimenting. I glued some chamois leather to the Chinese one (although I was too dumb to make sure the nap was in the right direction). I've also got a car sponge which has a lot of friction, and I could slice it finely and try it.
Anyone met this problem or tried anything like this or got any other suggestions for high friction materials? I think stripping the Bon Musica would be too drastic, before a joker suggests that.
My Mach One shoulder rest has a leather pad that I find doesn't provide enough friction. I've had some success attaching thin cosmetic sponges to it with rubber bands. (Not the double-thick ones that are sometimes sold at violin shops -- I use the regular-thickness ones that can be bought in 20-packs for a few dollars in the cosmetics section of local stores, because I only need them for friction, and actually want to avoid adding height.)
I confess I went straight for Superglue on the Chinese copy, but if it's a failure, I can remove all or some of the rubber from that and redo it, not a problem.
By the way, when you say "rubber" you're referring to the pad and not the feet, I assume? I'm never entirely sure what "rubber" means in British English, aside from knowing that an eraser (US) is called a rubber in the UK.
Yes, sorry, the pad.
For me the benefit of using rubber bands is that I can move the cosmetic sponges around on the shoulder rest. Because of a chronic shoulder injury the last two years (recently re-injured in a car accident), I've been changing my posture and viola hold a lot, so I only attach two of the sponges to my shoulder rest and shift them around as needed.
I discovered that Gorilla Glue is not a good idea, unless you spread it very evenly!
This would be a good application for contact cement. Apply to both sides, let it dry, aim carefully - (there’s no second chance).
I've removed the original rubber pad and the sponge I had glued to it and binned them, and now I have used a layer of leather glue to bond chamois leather directly to the wood. I'll check it tomorrow when it has had 24 hours to set.
Good old-fashioned rubber cement or Cow Gum had a lot going for them.
There are some velvets that are heavily napped, or corduroy may be best of all, AndrewH, in case you hadn't thought of it. (I assumed napping had to be directional, but it seems not)
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