Is altering peg hole sizes a must when fitting Wittner Finetune Pegs?
Wittner Finetune Pegs work great for me in that they save a lot of time and agony in tuning. Now I am getting a rather high quality new violin with "traditional" peg set. Is it possible to fit Wittner Finetune Pegs to the new violin without altering the sizes of existing peg holes with a reamer, so that the original set of "traditional" pegs can always be replaced later when desired?
Not a must
they have to be fit with a reamer, which will mean the original pegs no longer fit, I sincerely hope you give this some second thought!!
Wittners come in 2 different sizes. The larger size is bombastic an will rarely be needed even in worn out peg holes. The thinner model is still a little bit too thick.
You always have to ream the holes to some degree.
It's rare that the luthier would not use the reamer at all to fit your gear pegs. However often the amount of material removed is extremely small. Still, it's enough that your original pegs may not fit properly again. In that case you would just get a new set of traditional pegs.
But after removing the Wittners, you'll have to ream the peg hole a tiny little bit to get the conventional pegs run smooth again, since the tooled shaft leaves (very small) indentations.
You may not have to. They have the correct taper and have several diameters. I have not had to alter pegbox holes in any way, or use adhesives.
The indentations left by the gear pegs may not interfere with the movement of traditional pegs, depending on the brand of gear peg. But all this is academic since, statistically, people just don't go back to wooden (friction) pegs once they've done gear pegs.
Except me, in one of two cases. Which should not be seen as a vote against them. Actually, I pretty like them, from the functional point of view. Not so much because it makes tuning easier (which is obviously true), but because geared pegs won't slip when humidity changes, which gives me trouble during the cold season.
Thank you all very much for the most invaluable inputs.
Hopefully you have a luthier who doesn't mind being told how to do his job based on your discussions with random, mostly anonymous people on the internet. Your luthier already know that they should be removing as little material as possible with the reamer.
A perfectly formed wooden peg can fit a range of peg-hole diameters - it just sticks out more with a smaller hole and sinks in further with a larger hole - until the peg's shoulder contacts the peg box. That's when rebushing of the pegbox is required.
I think 1 mm is an overestimate of the tolerance. Just my own personal feeling. But i will admit that Andy has more experience with this.
Paul, I'm sure you are right. I wrote "less than." I just did not want to calculate how much less, but it would be based on the angle slope of the peg shaft and the length of the "tolerant" section of the geared peg. That section is a protuberance on the Wittner that creates a small slot in the pegbox wall; for the Peghed and Knilling it is screw that threads into the pegbox wall. 0.02 mm might be a better guess still < 1 mm.
Hi Xi Wang,
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