Trying to warm up my A string (and E at some point), and string life.
I have a set of Vision Titanium Solos on my violin. I changed out the E string ($21!!!!) because it was so prone to whistling. Put a Warchal pigtail string (I forget the string name) on there to handle that. But I'd like something warmer on the A and E strings to match my low strings.
My G and D strings sound pretty good. My A string sounds a bit bright in comparison, and not as much resonance.
I put a Tzigane A on there this morning to see what happens. I'm waiting for it to settle in. Lots of stretching going on.
I'm looking at the Shar string chart, and on the warm side of the field, they list Obligato, Tzigane, and Oliv. Also a Vision Solo, which is only a slight bit brighter than the others, per the chart.
I've read on here that Obligatos don't last long. What about the Tziganes, Vision Solo, and Olivs?
What are my nonwhistling warm options for the E?
Try low tension unwound gut for the middle strings if you're looking for warmth. As for the E string, you could try a wound option.
A? Pirastro Aricore. Sweet and warm and long lasting.
Not sure I'm ready to take on trying to tune gut strings yet, though I've been thinking about it.
Vision Ti Solo A takes longer time to break in, e.g., 1 month based on my experience, then settles down to exhibit a pleasantly bright and sweet tone. However, it is always on the bright side of the spectrum.
E string gauge can have a big affect on not only the E, but the rest of the violin.
Zhi-Yi, No. 1 and Eudoxa have different composition (Eudoxa is aluminum wound, and Pirastro told me that the Tonica wound E, which is also wound with aluminum, is a different string from the Eudoxa E. They do sound different).
I found that the Eudoxa wound E is the brightest, then the Tonica, and last of all the No.1 (which may be chromium wound, I'm not sure)
Adrian, I agree that Eudoxa E is brighter (and more powerful) than No. 1.
--"what if you don't use Pirastro Tonica Rosin"? I smile whenever I see that long list of Pirastro rosins that match all of their string brands. Is this a marketing ploy to sell more rosin? Ideally, the optimum grade of rosin would be different for each one of the 4 strings; E-A-D-G. A real chemist might know: how important is the electrical/mechanical adhesion between rosin and the different metals: steel, aluminum, platinum, silver,etc.
Put the Vision Solo A string on, replacing the Tzigane A I had on there. More resonance. Nice darkish tone. Now to experiment with the E string.
James Beament's book "The Violin Explained" has the best explanation of how rosin works that I have seen. Unfortunately the book has become horribly expensive so now even the Kindle version costs $54.
Thank you, Andrew V., I did not know that. So maybe we should not aggressively wipe off the rosin that is on the strings ?
Glad the Vision Solo A worked for you David! I just put my first set of Vision Solos on my violin (silver D). I still have the Piastro Gold E and I want to wait to try out the VS E until after my other strings settle down so I can decide if I like that combination. It sounds rather different with the VS Solo strings than it did with my Dominants - I suspect it won't be sticking around - the PGE seems a little more harsh than before but that may only be because the other strings haven't yet fully settled. Really like the VS G/D though - warmer/a bit richer/rings a bit more than the Dominants. The A hasn't yet settled enough for me to really hear the difference yet.
Another set of adjustment problems patched with strings...... both the whistle E and the A.
Clue me in as to how you know that for sure.
The E string being a Dominant already discourages people from trying, Adrian! Haha
Joel - I wipe of my strings after every playing - it's just part of putting the instrument back in its case. The rosin on the bow seems to re-coat them instantly. I get the feeling that leaving the rosin on builds up too much rosin on the strings.
" Clue me in as to how you know that for sure."
I asked because you didn't know the history of the instrument, how many luthiers I'd been to, what they said, what adjustments had been done, etc. Putting different strings on was not my first line of attack.
Michael, I have met many reputable luthiers claiming to be able to get rid of E string whistling. Unfortunately, their service never turned to be working much in fact. This is why we have developed non-whistling Amber E string. In my experience, there is a big difference between particular violins, from almost totally whistling resistant to entirely whistling prone. If you are out of luck possessing the latter one, you simply appreciate any kind of remedy, even if it would be a funny shaped string. As for luthiers service, I never found any working set-up in fact, as I have already mentioned. That is not to say that you are not able to solve the problem :-). I think I should visit your workshop one day...
Bohdan, to my memory, since figuring this out, no violin has come out of our shop with a whistle, including ones that came IN with that problem, if that problem was pointed out to me. So I obviously don't believe that this is an inevitable issue for some violins. I do discover, however, that the particulars leading to this are regularly ignored, even by many good shops, because of a particular errant belief about setups that I am not too eager to explain ;-)
Christian, the answer is: no, Amber Forte would not solve the problem better than the Amber medium gauge. Amber Forte has been developed simply as a bit heavier version of Amber E string, especially for instruments requiring a bit heavier E string (to balance the set if needed). Amber Forte does offer a mit more meaty sound, not the stronger whistling protection.
With my last violin, a succession of luthiers were unable to address the problem via adjustment, so swapping out E strings ended up being the answer. (That was before the Amber E existed, though.)
Michael, I believe that an instrument is either properly set-up or worse, with all subsequences. The same applies for the helix E string invention. It not only prevent whistling, but makes the sound melower and improves the response overall. This is why many of those who never faced whistling problems do like it as well.
Lydia, I don't think I have ever gone over 15 minutes, usually much less. People tell me my adjusting is remarkably efficient.
I should have stopped by when I was In Chicago with my violin.:-)
I have mixed suspicions about this. On the one hand, if a violin starts to whistle a lot, I do take that as a sign that something is out of adjustment and it should go visit the shop. On the other hand, I've never met a violin that I couldn't get to whistle by putting a gold-plated E on it. It seems logical that if you can induce the whistle by putting one E on, it's not unreasonable to try to cure the whistle by taking another one off.
I have used these strings, but not had a whistle, so I don't have a good answer for you.
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