Tips for Putting on New Strings?
Any tips for putting on new violin strings? For example, how tightly should I wind the string around the peg? How do you do it, in detail please. Please include every detail and tips. Thanks!
The string will get the proper tension just by the winding itself. There are many youtube videos that explain how to do this better than most people on this board can.
I stick the end through about an inch. Then I wind once around alongside the hole
Make sure you leave a little bit of the string poking out of the peg, and watch that the other end goes securely into the tailpiece - can use a pencil for this.
I do two windings away from the head of the peg, then reverse direction and run the string over the two windings and close towards the pegbox wall, you need to run the string over a couple windings to stop the string from unraveling, just winding without going over the top the strings will pull loose under tension, especially if the peg slips a bit.
I'm with everyone above. Careful that your bridge is kept standing upright. I apply peg dope (hill) and also lube the nut and bridge (4 B pencil) and clean the fingerboard.
I'll add one piece of equipment to the process: needle nose tweezers to get the string through the hole in the peg. My old fingers and getting a short part of the string into the hole is made a whole lot easier. Also, as I tune, and often do field repairs on student's fractional instruments, the tweezers are essential.
I use a "surgical clamp" ("hemostat") instead of tweezers to pull the string through the hole in the peg (easier than with tweezers). I try to pull about one centimeter of string through the hole and leave that poking through. Then I wind about 2 turns of string on the opposite side of the "poker" from the peg head. Then I wind string over the "poker" so it lies flat and I make as smooth a spiral of the string as I can up to the pegbox wall.
Having done only one winding on the "opposite side" forever, I will note that last time I considered doing the two windings (as Lyndon suggests) and next time I think I'll try that. Usually I'm getting pretty close to the pegbox wall anyway so having another winding on the "other side" will help with that. I think that could be because of the narrower shaft of the gear peg -- not sure on this point but if so then one needs more windings to take up the same length of string.
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