Bought my first violin, won't tune!
So finally took the plunge and bought my first ever violin. Followed some online tutorials and went to tune the thing but ... the pegs usually pull back around almost immediately, and are detuned almost an octave below.
I had the bridge snap down once, which was a very nice reality check for my ears.
Is what I'm experiencing something that tends to happen? (Not the bridge snapping down, I've learned my lesson) but not being able to get the string to hold a certain tension?
ANY help would be hugely appreciated. I would love to turn up to my first lesson with at least a semi-tuned violin!
Where did you get your violin? Because I've read similar stories from amazon violins. Are you
When tuning your violin with the pegs.
My first violin was a Mendini MV300, don’t laugh, after putting good strings on, it has a nice sound.
It'll tune. Give it time. Sometimes, the wood has to compress first on new instruments.
If you're a beginner you may prefer four finetuners on the tailpiece, rather than try to tune with the pegs. you probably have one finetuner now for the e-string.
My first violin cost $50. Nothing wrong with it apart from a high nut which needs fettling, maybe I could give the bridge a bit more camber. I smothered the pegs with Hidersine peg dope. And I put Tonicas on it.
Thank you all for your help and advice. As a result, the G,D,A strings are holding closer to the desired note (though they are going flat after a few minutes, but not as much as they were last night)
If all else fails, bring it to a violin shop for a setup. Where did you buy it? How much did you pay? It is a slight possibility that you have tuned to too high of an octave on the E string, but I think it likely would have broken if that is the case.
Even after you get it tuned, you might find it gets out of tune slightly often as the strings settle, from what I have read. Fine tuners for those asjustments. That is after you get it tuned. I had more problems with my E string than the others on the Mendini. It no longer has issues. Don’t know what kind of violin you purchased.
Cheap violins are notorious for having pegs that don't work.
I agree with Lyndon: cheap instruments are likely to have inferior peg fitting. I have found Hill's Peg Compound is ideal for solving both slipping and stuck peg problems. Hill's contains a balance of lubricant so the pegs turn smoothly and an abrasive so the pes won't slip and slip some more. You need to remove the string from the peg, and apply the peg compound to the shiny spots on the peg, where it contacts the pegbox sides. Apply just enough, wipe off any extra, and re-string. Even after the strings have settled down (so to speak) you will need to re-tune each time you play.
Lyndon, not all inexpensive violins are “cheap” violins. My Mendini is inexpensive, but it is not cheap. There is a difference. It has a very nice clear sound. Not as much depth as my upgraded violin, but it projects really well, and sounds great with the Tonicas. My tuning pegs are no longer a problem, either. They have sorted and settled themselves as they have heen used.
It's all an elaborate scheme. You are supposed to hate the very first cheap violin.
Erin, I have geared pegs on one of my cellos. I love those. They were on it when I purchased it. They would really make the inexpensive violin so much easier to tune for those with the tuning peg issues.
if the pegs don't work on a brand new violin, its most probably a cheap violin!!
And for the 100th time, Hill compound will make the pegs slip more not less, to get sticking you need chalk, or rouge or rosin.
Take it to a shop, they can diagnose and fix it right away. They should also nicely give you a hands on tutorial. So many possibilities, i.e. pegs could be improperly shaped, the holes could have a bad taper, strings not wound correctly, etc.
Thank you all for your time and advice. Definitely a cheap/starter violin. A Stentor 1018 (Stentor Student, often called). £95. Still, I wouldn't expect to come across an obvious defect. I'll try chalk/rosin as I have those available, and see if it makes sense.
Lyndon wrote: "And for the 100th time, Hill compound will make the pegs slip more not less, to get sticking you need chalk, or rouge or rosin. "
Hill compound is primarily a compound to promote slipping not gripping, end of story, it doesn't matter what the ingredients are, that's how it works, it works just like soap, to make pegs turn easily.
It just ... worked. I tried the same thing I've been trying, and this time everything just stuck in place. I guess it just needed some time to stretch or settle, or whatever it may be!
I was going to suggest pushing the pegs in firmly.
If at first you don't succeed...go on the internet, get lots of information and advice, realise it just results in more confusion, then try, try again
Many years ago, when I was having classical guitar lessons, I was in my teacher's guitar store (classical guitars and lutes, nothing else) talking to him prior to a lesson when a "customer" wandered in, and went round inspecting the instruments hanging on the walls and plucking the strings. He then muttered something about "these aren't in tune, they're rubbish", and wandered out. Cue eye-rolling by my teacher!
Peg compound is great.
Ahhhh that's good to know. My wife is being very supportiv and has asked me if I'd like anything for my violin, for my upcoming birthday. Given this is an approx 100 dollar violin, does it make sense to put some new strings on it? Budget around 60-70 dollars. Any recommendations?
for that money about the best strings you can get actually cost a bit less; Pirastro Tonica, highly recommended. Be careful where you buy them, a lot of counterfeit chinese versions on ebay.
I had a situation some years ago with a new set of HT steel strings (steel is ok for classical cellists, btw!) slipping on the old very smooth pegs despite looping over. My solution, which worked perfectly, was to apply rosin with my bow to the peg winding of the strings before refitting them.