I love planetary pegs, but lately I've noticed that my E peg keeps slipping on my instrument. I know how to deal with a slipping standard peg, but since planetaries have internal gears I'm rather at a loss. Does anyone know how to remedy this short of replacing the peg (or retuning every 30 seconds)?
Check to make sure it is not slipping at the peg box.
Are you sure that thread in the hole has not stripped? That's the only time I've had a problem like that.
And if super glue doesn't fix it you won't be able to replace it because its super glued in place, idiocy!!
Knilling Perfection Pegs and PegHeds planetary gear pegs require that you push in gently on the peg as you tune up. Before doing any surgery, I recommend you tune down about a whole step, then tune back up again, pushing in VERY GENTLY (more gently than you would with friction pegs) while you tune back up. Wittner FineTune pegs operate differently and do not need any pushing-in.
Actually the issue I’m talking about ia a poor installation in which the wood has stripped leaving you with two choices- 1. fix the hole, 2. get a wider diameter peg. I believe they come in 7.8, 8.0, 8.3, 8.5, and 9.0 mm measured inside the peg hole at the widest point.
A lot of people seem to be under the delusion that these mechanical pegs will never break and will never need to be replaced, so they can be permanently superglued into the pegbox, never to be removed even when they break.
Lyndon I respect your opinion, and I agree that one should not assume that gear pegs are perfect or permanent. But my luthier tells me that he's always been able to remove a gear peg when necessary to do other work, without damage to the peg box. He did say it's not always easy. That's why even though gear pegs may come with DIY instructions I prefer to have my installations done by a pro.
Oh, I’m not under that delusion. I have had a couple so far that were grindy in the gears and finicky to fine tune. I’m just sayin’ that in normal problem solving, you rule out all other possibilities and don’t assume just one thing is the reason without exploring the others. Basic principle in scientific methodology.
I've installed both the planetary (perfection) and in-peg (Wittner) geared systems. I prefer the Wittner because they fit without any adhesive and do not thread the peg hole to stay in place. The Wittner Finetune pegs can then be popped out easily if you want to go back to traditional friction pegs.
I used superglue on all my pegs of that type because of Herrin's instructions (if I recall correctly). Superglue cleans up pretty well. In my experience superglues are super-fast, but not super-lasting. Whatever you do don't use regular Gorilla Glue.
So you've essentially destroyed your violin with super glue!!
Chuck Herin does not have downloadable instructions on his web site. However I found the instructions for Perfection (knilling) pegs which are basically the same:
...if I'm allowed a comment on geared pegs...I've only tried them once. didn't like them because the turning radius was too wide. brought the A in with my fork, and then to tune in 5th's, I kept going over it and under it, over it and under it...you get the idea.
Same with me, Dave & Lyndon. But still, those who decided to join the geared&glued-peg-fraction for whatever the reason, shouldn't we just leave them alone with their specific discussion?
Dave wrote, "I kept going over it and under it, over it and under it...you get the idea."
For the record, I should perhaps have been a bit clearer: The peg itself isn't slipping -- I could fix that -- but the internal gears aren't holding. I don't think anyone is suggesting that I Super Glue the gears.
John, have you mentioned which brand of peg it is yet?
Coming back to your thread and participating in it actually helps. Otherwise it tends to wander away from its original theme. Look up "random walk" and you'll get the picture.
I'd have to check with the luthier who installed them to be sure, but I believe they are Perfection pegs. (Sorry not to have been more involved in the discussion earlier but had some computer issues.) I'll probably just end up taking the instrument back to the luthier if the problem persists since in all likelihood I think it will need to be replaced anyway. Maybe he won't even charge me (but I doubt I'll be that lucky).
"..if I'm allowed a comment on geared pegs...I've only tried them once. didn't like them because the turning radius was too wide. brought the A in with my fork, and then to tune in 5th's, I kept going over it and under it, over it and under it...you get the idea.
You've got to be some kind of dolt to install them on the wrong side. They come in a box where each one is marked as to the string it's for. (Unless you or your luthier is buying cheap knockoffs on eBay.)
I'm OK with the geared pegs. The sky isn't falling. High-level professional colleagues who have installed many more of them than I have, have had no problem removing them if/when they needed to.
@duane lasley: my nuts are just fine, thank you (on both my fiddles that is). I wasn't talking about 'jumping'. As stated in my post..."I don't like them because the turning radius is too wide". I don't have time to wait that long to tune to pitch.
May I suggest loktite rather than glue? It is made to hold parts together UNTIL you want to remove them. It is made to resist vibration. There are different types for different jobs. None are for plastic to wood joining specifically, but the blue kind might work and unlike superglue, do no permanent harm.
Loctite is a brand name. They make several different kinds of adhesives. Can you be more specific?
Scott, I’ve noticed some loctite type adhesives seem to be poor emulsions with a very separable solvent. I would have concerns about that solvent penetrating and persisting in the wood fibers away from the bond.
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