Where to put the holes in Chin rest?

February 16, 2018, 9:29 PM · I bought this Set on Amazon (amazon.com/gp/product/B0774XKPW6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 )but it didn't come with holes screwed into the chin rest, where would make the hole and is there any padding that I can buy online for the bottom of the chin rest so it doesn't scratch my violin?

Replies (13)

Edited: February 18, 2018, 6:09 AM · This is what I've done in the past.

1) Purchase a bottle of wine - a bottle with a real cork in it. Using a really sharp blade cut the cork into strips 1/8" thick and stick them to the bottom of the chinrest with an adhesive such as superglue or binary epoxy resin. Binary epoxy resin is the type where you have to mix together two components to get the final resin. Note that there are two kinds of binary epoxy - the fast-setting, which sets in a few minutes minutes, and the slow-setting, in which hardening takes several hours. The packaging should tell you the hardening time. I prefer epoxy (the quick-setting!) because you need something strong and permanent that isn't going let the cork slide off the metal part when in use.

2) Before you do anything else wait for the adhesive to completely dry and harden. Instructions on the adhesive container should give you a guide.

3) Trim excess cork from the edges - it looks neater - and with a fine emery board or similar rub off any unevenness from the surface of the cork where it will contact the violin.

4) Turn the screwed sleeves on the bottom of the chinrest so that there are equal amounts of thread showing top and bottom. I think you can see this on the amazon web page.

5) Hold the wooden part of the chinrest on the top of the violin in the position where you're going to use it, and offer up the metal part of the chinrest so that the cork now on it contacts the bottom of the violin. Mark where the ends of the angled pieces at the top of the screw threading come against the side of the chinrest, because these marks are where you'll be drilling the holes in the chinrest.

6) Clamp the wooden part of the chinrest against something so that it can't move. Drill carefully at right angles into the marks on the side. Use a drill bit of the appropriate size to provide a hole into which you screw the angled bits (which have screw threads) so that the threads hold in the wood and don't pull out.

7) Unscrew the angled pieces from the metal part of the chinrest and screw them into the holes you've drilled so that the outside parts point directly downwards towards the back of the violin. If by mischance you've used a slightly oversize drill bit you can still secure the angled pieces in the holes by coating them with epoxy resin before you insert them. Obviously, wait for the epoxy to harden before you do anything else.

8) Screw the rest of the metal part of the chinrest to the angled pieces now attached to the wooden part of the chinrest, and it should be ready for tightening up on the violin.
WARNING! When doing this last part never over-tighten, because there is the danger that you could be expensively damaging the structure of the violin. I tighten my chinrest with barely more than the fingers so that it is secure during playing but can be gently pulled off without undoing the threads - but it is usually necessary to slightly undo the threads in order to get the chinrest back on.
Check the tightness a while later because the cork may have compressed slightly.

9) Enjoy the wine. You deserve it!

Edited: February 17, 2018, 9:18 AM · Trevor - excellent and very complete description - except I could not find an answer to Jia's question with respect to her specific chinrest. From the Amazon website her chinrest looks like an over-the tailpiece design, so I would recommend first checking that there is sufficient room for her tailpiece to fit under this chinrest. Next carefully place the chin rest clamp (metal piece) so that the threaded parts are centered about the opening in the chinrest wood and sufficiently placed vertically that the chin rest can be clamped to the violin given the range of the tightening screws. THAT'S WHERE THE HOLES IN THE CHINREST WOOD GO!

One other quibble - I have successfully glued my "wine-cork wafers" to the chin rest clamps with superglue. Easier, 1000% faster, and no epoxy mixing! I always keep a bit of spare wine cork in our kitchen utensil drawer and one in my violin repair kit - just in case I have to do this again. I have cut back on my wine drinking recently!

Just be sure the wine you use does not have a screw top as more and more of French wines seem to these days! Another good reason for saving a wine cork! You can still count on 3-Buck Chuck for corks (used to be 2-Buck Chuck = Charles Shaw)!

February 17, 2018, 9:16 AM · It would be a lot simpler to just buy stick-on cork at a hardware store!
February 17, 2018, 2:55 PM · Roger, but then you wouldn't have the wine to drink :(
February 17, 2018, 3:07 PM · Gasket cork from the hardware store works too, attached with some common carpenter's glue. Not all wine bottlers are using cork stoppers these days; some kind of synthetic stopper stuff is getting pretty common.
February 17, 2018, 7:17 PM · You got ripped off, a proper chinrest should cost you $15 or less.
February 18, 2018, 6:39 AM · I've had another look at the Amazon web page linked by the OP and noticed that the product is not being shipped to the UK. That, together with the lack of holes in the chinrest and padding on the metal clamp part of the chinrest, gives me the impression that the product is still "work in progress" and what we're seeing may be a marketing exercise to test the water.

Lyndon, the Set they're charging $26.99 for includes "Handmade Tailpiece, Endpin, 4 Tuners, Chin rest, 4 Tuning Pegs, Screw, Tail Gut", so it's not quite the financial rip-off it would be if it were only the chinrest.

The pegs apparently don't have holes. So there's another problem for the amateur violin maker - knowing exactly where they should be drilled, the size of the holes, and having the right tools and skills to make a good job of it.

I also cannot see whether the tailpiece has holes for the tail gut - their absence would not surprise me.

Edited: February 18, 2018, 6:51 AM · @John Minnich, would ordinary carpenter's glue adhere effectively to the metal part of the chinrest? I don't know, which is why I suggested superglue or a binary epoxide.
February 18, 2018, 5:33 PM · You might want to roughen the surface of the metal part also, with some steel wool or fine sandpaper, at least 200 grit. That could improve the adhesion. And I would use superglue or a two-tube epoxy also. Superglue (cyanoacrylate cement) is easier to deal with.
February 18, 2018, 5:59 PM · It takes $250 in tools to properly fit a set of pegs, so the pegs are basically useless, a tailpiece costs $5 so you still overpaid.
February 18, 2018, 9:03 PM · Trevor,

It probably won't ship to the UK because it's rosewood. Not worth it for amazon to file CITES paperwork for something like this.

Edited: February 19, 2018, 3:34 PM · I agree with Lyndon -- the whole thing seems like a total ripoff. Who would sell a chinrest without the hardware fitted? Someone who bought up a bunch of cast-off seconds and over-runs from a Chinese factory, that's who.
Edited: February 19, 2018, 4:42 PM · Trevor J.: No, carpenter's glue wouldn't work for the metal bracket. I'd try contact cement for that I think. Or double sided tape as long as it doesn't slip. I don't know about the two glues you suggested.

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